Hogmanay Tales and Recipes

Bliadhna mhath ur! • [ blee-unna va oor ] Happy New Year

English: Fireworks over Edinburgh on New Year’s Eve (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

New year’s eve, or Hogmanay is a favorite Scottish holiday. I experienced it many years ago in the village of Culross north of Edinburgh. A group of us living in London traveled with our Scottish companion to visit his family. We went to a community feast and dance, then returned home at around 11:30 pm. At midnight we carried on the tradition of first footing, visiting houses with a gift of coal or silver hopefully carried over the threshold by a dark-haired man to bring good fortune for the upcoming year. The first house for us was the Vicar’s residence. Undaunted we rang the door bell, and the Vicar’s wife answered. One of our party, a dark-haired cockney Londoner took seriously his role. “Hallo me ol’ darlin” he said as he picked up the Vicar’s wife and spun her around. Fortunately she laughed heartily and on we went.

I remember one home had all the lights on and front door unlocked.The residents were also traveling around, so they left a large bottle of whiskey on the table with small glasses, so we entered and toasted the house. The only policemen in town was on holiday.

Haggis is also part of tradition, although in our case we had it at a brunch the following day. My first taste of it combined with a hang over was a challenge for my unsettled stomach.

Haggis, neeps and tatties (Photo credit: muuranker)

In recent years Scottish chefs have embraced this bland yet poetic iconic sausage as a base for culinary creativity. I experienced this on a recent stay in Scotland – haggis appetizers, breakfast sausages, even pakoras. Fusion restaurant menus try to make it contemporary and include it in tostadas, stuffed courgettes and even pizza. But, haggis is to Scotland as ravioli is to Italy, curry to India, sushi to Japan and BBQ to the US.

Outside of Scotland, the fan base is small, perhaps due to a reluctance to eat sheep innards. But, I find a vegetarian version mixed with other Scottish traditional fare will liven up parties. An appetizer plate – vegetarian haggis served on oat cakes with red onion chutney or whiskey sauce and a side of clapshot (potatoes and turnips which originated in the Orkney Islands).

Bagpipes optional.

bagpipe player (Photo credit: kpc)

Vegetarian Haggis as per Henderson Restaurant in Edinburgh Serves 4 Ingredients

1. 75g (3oz) mushrooms, finely chopped

2. 75g (3oz) brown lentils (soaked for 2-3 hours)

3. 50g (2oz) pinhead oatmeal (soaked for 1 hour)

4. 50g (2oz) red kidney beans (soaked, cooked and chopped)

5. 25g (1oz) margarine

6. 150g (5oz) grated carrot

7. 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

8. 150g (5oz) onions, finely chopped

9. 1 tbspn vegetable oil

10. 1 tbspn tamari or soy sauce

11. 1 tspn garam masala

12. Freshly ground sea salt and black pepper

Method 1. Saute the garlic and onion in a little vegetable oil until soft, adding the garam masala, tamari or soy sauce and a little salt and pepper.

2. Add the brown lentils and carrot, and simmer on a low heat until the lentils are soft, stirring to prevent the mixture sticking. If the mixture starts to dry out too much, add a small amount of vegetable stock or water.

3. Add mushrooms and allow to soften, then add the kidney beans. Stir in the margarine and add black pepper to taste.

Red Onion Chutney

3 red onions or 4 shallots peeled and finely chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine or cider vinegar

4 tablespoons red wine or cider

1 level tablespoon dark brown sugar

Sauté onions in the olive oil for 15-20 min. until softened. Add vinegar, wine and sugar and increase heat. When bubbling, lower to a simmer, cover and cook gently or 10 minutes, the cook uncovered for about 20 minutes or until thick. Set aside to cool.

Whiskey Cream Sauce serves 4-6

1 tablespoon rapeseed oil

1 small shallot finely chopped

30 ml whiskey

150 ml stock

250 ml whipping cream

2 – 3 teaspoons Arran grainy mustard

salt and freshly milled black pepper

finely chopped chives (optional)

Heat rapeseed oil in heavy bottomed pan and gently saute the shallots without colouring them. Add the whiskey and flambe to burn off alcohol. Add stock to pan ard reduce liquid by half.

Season to taste. Add cream, bring to the boil and then reduce to a consistency that will stick to the back of a spoon. You can put it through a fine sieve if you want it really smooth. Add Arran mustard, bring to the boil.

Clapshot – Serves four

Use equal parts of potatoes and swede turnips. Peel and cube, boil separately in water for 20 minutes. Drain, then mash together with butter and drizzle with cream and sprinkle with chives.